Ever pull the cord on a cold morning and get nothing? Your Craftsman snowblower won’t start. It happens to many people. But don’t worry — the fix is often quick and easy.
I’ve been there too. During Midwest blizzards, I’ve had to deal with the same thing. After years of trial and error, I’ve learned what works. Now, I’ll share those tips with you.
Follow along, and you’ll get your snowblower running fast. Your driveway will be clear before the next storm rolls in.
Table of Contents
Start With the Basics (Don’t Overthink It Yet)
Before grabbing tools or spending cash, check the easy stuff. Trust me — most times my Craftsman snowblower wouldn’t start, the fix was simple.
Check the fuel
Is there gas in the tank? I’ve forgotten before — it happens. Make sure the gas is fresh. Old gas doesn’t work well in cold weather. I try to use ethanol-free gas when I can. It starts easier and keeps parts clean.
Switch and key
Make sure the switch is “ON” and the safety key is in. Cold hands and gloves can knock them loose without you noticing.
Choke and throttle
Use full choke to start when it’s cold. Once the engine runs, open it slowly. Set the throttle to “fast” or “run.”
Spark plug wire
One time I pulled the cord for 20 minutes before I saw the spark plug wire was loose. Push it on tight. It makes a big difference.
Fuel System Failures (Most Common Problem)
If the basics check out and it still won’t start, the fuel system is next. Bad gas and dirty carbs cause most of the trouble.

Stale Gas: Your Engine’s Worst Enemy
Gas goes bad fast — sometimes in 30 days. Most gas here in the U.S. has ethanol. That pulls in water, which leads to rust and clogs.
- What I saw: My snowblower sputtered, backfired, or did nothing after summer. The gas smelled like old varnish.
- How to check: Open the gas cap and sniff. If it smells sour or looks dark, it’s bad.
- How I fix it: I pump out the old gas with a hand siphon. Then I add fresh gas with a stabilizer. Now I use stabilizer every time — it keeps gas good all winter.
Gummed-Up Carburetor
Old gas leaves sticky stuff inside the carb. That clogs small fuel jets. Then the engine can’t get gas.
- What it looks like: You’ll see brown goo in the carb bowl. The float might stick too.
- What I do: If I catch it early, I drain the bowl and spray carb cleaner. If that fails, I take off the carb and soak it overnight. One time, I just bought a new one — it was cheaper than fixing the old one for hours.
Fuel Line, Filter, and Cap Problems
Cracked fuel lines or clogged filters stop fuel flow. Not every Craftsman has a filter, but many do.
- Quick check: Squeeze the fuel line. If it feels stiff or cracks, replace it.
- Fuel cap vent: This one tricked me. If the vent is blocked, gas can’t flow. I loosened the cap a bit — and it started! Cheap and fast.
Spark System: If Fuel’s Good, Check for Fire
If your Craftsman snowblower still won’t start and the gas is fresh, check for spark. No spark means no fire — plain and simple.
Spark Plug Inspection
Bad plugs can fool you. They might look fine but still fail when it counts.
- What a good plug looks like: Dry tip. Light gray or tan color. No soot. No gas smell.
- What a bad plug looks like: Wet, black, or oily. Cracked porcelain or thick buildup. If it’s dark and wet, toss it.
- What I do: Each fall, I pull the plug. I check the gap (mine’s 0.030″). If it looks old or worn, I swap it. Plugs are cheap — about $3 here in the U.S. Totally worth it.
Testing Spark the Right Way
Don’t lay the plug on the metal and hope. That’s messy and not always right.
- How I test now: I use a spark tester. It clips between the wire and plug. Pull the cord — if it flashes blue, you’ve got spark. These testers cost about $10.
- What I learned: No spark? Unplug the kill switch wire at the coil. Try again. If spark comes back, your switch or wire is bad. Still no spark? The coil is likely shot.
Mechanical Ignition Parts (Deeper Problems)
Sometimes the plug is good, but deeper parts fail. I found this out one cold winter.

Ignition Coil and Kill Switch
Most Craftsman snowblowers use a stop switch. It grounds the coil to stop the spark.
Quick check: Unplug the ground wire from the coil. Pull the rope. If spark shows up, the switch or wire is bad. Fix the wire or swap the switch.
Flywheel Key: The One I Missed
This one had me stumped for days.
- What happened: I hit a curb clearing snow. The flywheel stopped fast. That broke the flywheel key — a small metal tab that keeps timing right.
- Signs: Rope kicks back. Loud pop or backfire. Or no start at all.
- Heads up: To fix it, you’ll need a flywheel puller and torque wrench. It’s not hard, but not super basic either. If you’re not sure, a local shop can do it quick.
Air & Compression: Rare but Real Problems
If fuel and spark are good, I check air and compression. These don’t fail often. But when they do, they stop the engine cold.
No Air Filter? That’s Often Normal
Here’s what I learned: most Craftsman snowblowers don’t have an air filter. They work in snow, not dirt, so filters aren’t needed.
Compression Check: Thumb or Gauge
Engines need strong compression to run. If rings or valves leak, power drops — or it won’t start at all.
- Fast test: Pull the spark plug. Put your thumb over the hole. Pull the rope. A strong puff should push your thumb back. Weak puff? That’s a red flag.
- Gauge test: Once, my Craftsman ran weak and wouldn’t start warm. I used a compression gauge. Good engines read 70–100 PSI. Mine showed less than 40. Worn rings. At that point, it’s better to rebuild or replace the engine.
Starter System Failures: Not Always the Engine
Sometimes the engine is fine — but starter parts fail. I’ve had both manual and electric starter issues during deep snow here in the U.S.

Manual Recoil Issues
One night, I pulled the cord 50 times. Nothing happened. It pulled back in but didn’t spin the engine.
- Why: Inside, the spring or pawls (small metal arms) can break or stick. If the engine doesn’t spin, it can’t start.
- Fix: I removed the recoil cover. Cleaned and greased the pawls so they flipped out. If the spring’s broken, I replace the whole recoil unit. That’s way easier than rewinding the spring by hand.
Electric Starter Problems
Many Craftsman models in the U.S. come with electric start — a big help in cold snow.
- One winter fail: I hit the button. Just a click — no spin. That often means the gear is stuck or the starter motor is jammed.
- What I do: First, I test the outlet and cord. No power, no start. Then I tap the starter with a rubber mallet while pressing the button. That can free the gear. If not, I check the switch. Sometimes, I have to replace the starter motor.
Off-Season Mistakes That Cause No-Start Issues
I used to pack away my Craftsman snowblower each spring without thinking. Big mistake! Poor storage is why many snowblowers won’t start next winter — I’ve learned that the hard way.
What I Did Wrong
I left old gas in the tank. I skipped oil changes. I never looked at the spark plug. By fall, I’d pull the cord — and nothing happened.
How I Store It Now (The Right Way)
After killing two carburetors, I follow a simple plan each spring. It keeps my machine ready for big snowstorms or early flakes.
- Fuel: I run the tank dry or add a fuel stabilizer. No more stale gas.
- Oil: I drain the old oil and add clean oil. Dirty oil causes sludge.
- Spark plug: I pull the plug, spray a little fogging oil into the cylinder, then pull the rope a few times. This keeps the piston from rusting.
- Lubrication: I grease the chute, cables, and auger. That way, nothing freezes in the cold.
- Storage: If I can, I store it inside. If not, I use a good cover to keep out water and mice.
Quick Reference: My Seasonal Start-Up Routine
Before the first snow, I check these things. This routine prevents 99% of the calls I used to make to the shop.
- Gas: Fresh and treated with stabilizer.
- Oil: Full, clean, and at the right level.
- Spark plug: Clean, gapped right, or replaced.
- Spark test: Use a tester to make sure spark is strong.
- Controls: Choke, throttle, and key all move free.
- Prime: Push the primer a few times as the manual says.
- Start it: Pull the cord or hit the starter. It should fire right up.
When to Call a Pro
Sometimes your Craftsman snowblower just won’t start. Don’t worry — it happens to all of us.
Low compression?
If a test shows below 50 PSI, the engine may have bad rings or valves. That means a rebuild. Or maybe even a new engine. A small engine shop can check it for you.
Loud noises or damage?
If you hear knocking, see metal in the oil, or the crank won’t move, it’s bad. Something broke inside. At that point, I let a pro handle it. Or I just replace the snowblower.
No time?
A storm might be coming, and you need it fixed fast. I’ve called a shop the day before a blizzard. No shame in that — it beats shoveling snow for hours.
Read More: Greenworks 60V vs 80V Snow Blower
Conclusion: Fix It Once, Keep It Running
If your Craftsman won’t start, don’t panic. Most fixes are simple.
For me, the usual problem was old gas or a dirty carb. Sometimes the spark plug or a safety switch.
Now, I keep tools ready. I also follow a checklist each season. That keeps my snowblower in good shape all winter.
Start small:
Fresh gas.
Clean spark plug.
Fuel lines clear.
Check for spark the right way.
If that doesn’t work, call a pro.
You’ve got this! I’ve been there too. Stay warm. Stay safe. Keep your Craftsman ready.
FAQs: Craftsman Snowblower Not Starting
Why won’t my Craftsman snowblower start after summer?
Old gas is the top reason. Gas goes bad fast. Drain it and add fresh gas with stabilizer.
How do I know if the spark plug is bad?
Check the plug. If it’s black, wet, or cracked, replace it. A new plug often fixes the problem.
How do I clean a dirty carburetor?
Take off the carb bowl. Spray cleaner inside. If that fails, take the carb off and soak it overnight.
Should I call a pro if it still won’t start?
Yes. If gas, spark, and carb are fine, it may be the engine. Call a mechanic before the next storm.
How can I stop this from happening next winter?
Use fuel stabilizer or run the tank dry. Change the oil and check the plug in spring. Store it inside if you can.